Letters from Riyadh
Last night I watched the movie Letters from Iwo Jima which I quite enjoyed. By coincidence today my mother sent me some letters I had written to my family when I worked in Riyadh back in 1991. Though far removed from Roi-Namur I thought it might be interesting to see where this Roi Rat had worked in other over seas assignments. It is not unusual for Roi Rats to work in various places over seas. I’d say we were an adventurous lot. So this following letter was written on July 11, 1991. It was a predecessor to letters I would eventually write from Roi.
Dear Family and Friends,
Sorry for writing a group letter but I had intended to write individual letters and have never got around to it. Besides, I’d probably just write the same thing to everyone anyways.
On my way over here I came through Amsterdam, and enjoyed myself quite a bit. I found the Dutch to be a good humored people, though I haven’t figured out why they would laugh every time I spoke Nederlandes (Dutch) to them. My command of the language helped me to make friends. A few times it didn’t help, like when I would get on a Dutch plane I’d greet the flight attendant in Dutch. She would see my obvious Dutch features and see my Dutch name on my boarding past and would make the false assumption I was Dutch and then proceeded to rattle off a bunch of Nederlandes in reply. Although I speak Nederlandes, I barely understand a word of it. I assumed she was telling me where my seat was, though she could have been telling me I looked like a drowned rat[Foreshadowing of my future on Roi where I did look like a drowned rat at times] . When I went to England 4 years ago I felt like I was visiting somebody’s grandmother’s house. You know, old and stuffy with a bunch of antiques. Visiting the Netherlands seemed more like a Studevant reunion. The people looked like Studevants, they acted like Studevants, they drank beer like Studevants. What I enjoyed the most was visiting fishing villages on the Zuider Zee (South Sea), and a boat tour on the canals in Amsterdam. I found a picture of one of our ancestors that I’ll show you if you come to Seattle but I did not find any living Studevants. So much for the Netherlands.
Upon landing in Cairo and boarding a plane for Riyadh I was immediately in culture shock which lasted for almost a week. I would best describe it as an unreasonable fear. I was never so afraid in all of my life. The only comfort I would get was when I’d read my Bible. Finally a Christian friend came over and prayed with me. My fear left almost immediately.
Today is my first day off since arriving (I only worked 3 hours today). I’m spending it hanging around the pool. Whenever I get hot I jump in the water. I’m instantly cool when I get out because it is so dry it sucks the moisture right off like a drought after a shower. Tonight I intend to play soccer with some Arabs down the street. I have never met them so I hope they let me play.
Now I would like to tell you about a typical day. I get up around 6:30, climb into my Toyota Cresida about 7 and head for work. Usually I make a wrong turn and end up in the midst of a camel herd. Being on the highway is what I like the least here for the following reasons:
1) The driving style is much different than in America. For example, if someone puts on their left turn indicator it may mean one of four things a) They are changing to the left lane, b) they are changing to the right lane, c) it is OK to pass them, d) they are not going to do anything. That is not the worse.
2) Drivers will cut across 2 or 3 lanes to exit.
3) Tail gating is the norm.
4) If a car misses an exit they will back up to get to it. (Friends of mine have seen people driving the wrong way to exit).
5) If someone hits me it is my fault for being there. I could go on and on but you get the picture. I thank Allah that Alcohol is not permitted and that women are not allowed to drive (just kidding). Uh-oh, its hot, time to jump in the pool.
Ah, that’s better, except I’m dripping all over the paper. After arriving at work I go to the Desert Inn, run by the USAF. For breakfast I have pancakes, potatoes, and juice. Then I work , go to the D.I. again for lunch (more yank food), work some more and go home. Sometimes my work requires me to go out in the desert somewhere in Central Saudi Arabia. I always enjoy the drive because its on dirt roads far from any other driver who could hit me.
The compound I live at consists of 60 villas (similar to 2 story townhouses), a tennis court, 2 racket ball courts, a basketball court and a play ground. We have 4 swimming pools and a workout room. The entire compound is walled so it seems a lot like California. You can wear shorts and women (there are a few) can dress normal. There is a snack bar where I often eat supper. I’ve been out to a Turkish and a Lebanese restaurant. I liked the latter. They also have Wendy’s, Popeye’s, and Pizza Huts. All the restaurants have men only sections. I actually went about 2 weeks before I talked to a live woman (a westerner of course). Sometimes at night I go shopping at the Souks. I’ve tried out my Arabic on the shop owners but I haven’t figured out why they laugh when I speak it. In this country there is a real class distinction. Naturally at the top are the Saudi’s, then come westerners followed by Filippinos and then other nationalities like Sri Lankan, Indian, and Pakistani. Our secretaries are Philippino men, most have at least a bachelor degree. The engineering secretary has 2 master’s degrees. My house boy is from Sri Lanka. All of my housework is done for me. What bugs me is they all call me sir. It’s done out of respect but I am not use to it. I like being treated like an equal.
In the background I hear the afternoon prayer call. They pray 5 times a day. At 4 AM, at 12 noon, at about 3:30 (at time of writing), again at 6:30, and finally around 8:30. All stores and restaurants close during prayer which makes it tricky to plan when to go out. Often if you are already in the restaurant they will let you stay but you cannot leave until the prayer is over. The Arabs I have met have been very gracious, hospitable, and very well mannered. The only thing they require is a defensive driving course.
I miss my family very much and that is the worse thing about being here. When I look at my kids pictures I always get choked up, as I am now writing about them. I plan to be home no later than Labor day and I hope sooner. I love getting letters, please write if you can. Short letters are fine, I just like to find mail in my box.
yours,
Glenn
5 Responses to “Letters from Riyadh”
 Comment by Lee Handy July 31st, 2008 at 7:01 am |
Hey Glenn, Thanks for the description of your experience traveling to and living in Saudi Arabia. Take care. |
 Comment by Bruce M. Petty September 15th, 2009 at 1:04 pm |
We have something in common. I too lived and worked in Riyadh, and also on a Pacific island–Saipan (1995-2000). After our last tour of duty in Riyadh (2002-2004), we moved to New Zealand, where we have lived for the past five years. My time in Saudi Arabia resulted in my most recent of five book, “Living Behind Walls: Insdie The Desert Kingdom of Saudi Arabi.” All of my other books are about WWII in the Pacific. |
 Comment by David J. Schneider November 12th, 2009 at 10:10 pm |
I’m not sure if you were there on Roi when I worked there. I belive that we had different grade of work. I (Sadly to say) worked for Johnson Controls at that time. My brother (Gary L. Schneider) worked for Am pro as police on the Roi. |
 Comment by Russell March 20th, 2010 at 11:29 pm |
The DI had some of the best coconut creme pie I have ever eaten. It was wonderful. |
 Comment by glennstu June 26th, 2010 at 10:08 pm |
Hi David, Thanks for serving our country. I was there maybe 7 years after you left. Ted was probably a guy you knew cause I think he was there from the 60s and had a lot of interesting stories. I was never entirely sure whether it was the 1960s or the 1860s. We had another Native Alaskan when I lived there who I was friends with. He was a great guy and lots of fun. |